When was the last time you stopped to savor a bite of food or a sip of a beverage? Food can bring back memories of places we’ve visited or conjure images of traditional culinary or wine making practices. But do our memories make those artisan foods taste “special” or is there more to the story? My first (now completed) Distillation, Wine and Brewing class revealed it’s more than our memory that defines that unique taste. The uniqueness of a specialty food, distilled spirit or wine often lies within its “taste of place” or terroir!
What is Terroir?
Terroir (pronounced ter-wahr) is a French term from the original word “terre” meaning land. The term originally described the unique environmental (soil, climate, landscape) and cultural characteristics that defined the wine regions of France. Today the “taste of place” concept extends to a variety of global artisan foods and beverages.1
The Terroir Reality Check
While some may question if terroir is more of an illusion than reality, recent scientific studies validate there is more fact than fiction behind the “terroir” theory. In a recent Oregon State study comparing the same barley variety grown in two difference regions in Ireland,2 distinct aroma differences were noted. Using spectrometry, sensory panels and mathematical analyses, the results showed it was the environment in which the barley was planted that contributed to distinct and unique aromas differences. Hence, why malt whiskey in Ireland will have a different flavor profile than malt whisky in Scotland even if the same “recipe” and distillation process are used.
In France, the types of grapes, and the resulting wines, have always been connected to their terroir. Our recent visit to Reims, France (the champagne region) confirmed that fact. One of the first things the Vinter we visited mentioned was the importance of the region’s “terroir” in creating its notoriety.
“Tasting the Place” in Parmigiano Reggiano
Distinct food products, like Parmigiano Reggiano, also are influenced by the distinct environmental and cultural factors in which it is produced. While the historical account of this cheese’s origins may sound mythical, the documented knowledge of different cow breeds’ milk composition and the impact of grazing practices is not.
Parmigiano Reggiano production dates to the 12th century and was one of Italy’s first protected cheeses of origin. The type of cows, the geographic climate and soils of the Parma, Modena and Bologna regions, along with time honored artisan cheese-making processes, define the terroir of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Today, the original four cow breeds still exist, populated mainly with the Friesian and Brown Swiss breeds, on approximately 300 farms. The region’s climate produces pastures that contain over 60 herb varieties and are surrounded by mountain ranges and two rivers that contribute to its lushness. The diet of any cow in the region must be comprised of at least 75% of locally produced feed, including alfalfa, grazing pastures and hay, to maintain the characteristic flavor of the milk.
In the spring of 2022, we experienced the terroir firsthand. A Bologna food tour included a visit to Parma and the making of Parmigiano Reggiano at a local cheese cooperative. As described, only unpasteurized milk is used, combining milk from an early morning delivery with milk from the previous evening in large copper kettles.3 From our close-up viewpoint, in lab coats and hair nets, we witnessed the “taste of place” taking form with the pride and workmanship of all the workers, and the constant testing and monitoring by the cheese master.
The nutty, yet creamy taste of the “pride of Italy” still resonates in my mind and on my taste buds when savoring a bite of the real “Parm” thanks to the region’s terroir.
Aura or Terroir in New York Bagel or Kentucky Bourbon?
While the terroir of a regionally produced beverage or food has its validity based on a specific climate, temperature, soil or water quality, it also can be an economic and marketing benefit like the aura around New York bagels (apologies to my New York friends).
While it is believed by some that the softness of a New York bagel is derived from the use of the city’s tap water (which has a lower magnesium and calcium level), others state it’s the boiling of the bagel that makes the difference. The Culinary Institute of America describes that a superior quality bagel is achieved when the yeast ring is refrigerated for a couple of days before cooking. It is then boiled in a water and malt barely solution from 30 seconds to 3 minutes to achieve the “New York bagel” effect. Hence, it’s the method not the water profile.
On the other hand, I would say it is the water that defines the terroir of Kentucky bourbon beyond the standard requirements. Whiskey, to be classified as bourbon must be produced in the U.S., consist of at least 51% corn and be aged in new charred oak barrels. But it’s the Kentucky limestone that makes the difference.
Why? The limestone “cliffs” filter the iron from the natural water supply — an important factor in eliminating off flavors and colors in the finished product. Additionally, the high mineral content (magnesium and calcium) contributes positively to the fermentation process and the unique flavor of a true Kentucky bourbon.
Connecting Taste to Place
The uniqueness of a food or beverage lies beyond our memories. The environment — from weather patterns to soil types, along with cultural practices — determine what we can grow and produce.
It’s the “taste in place” that can make us pause and savor that bite or sip.
Here’s to terroir!
References:
1. “Taste of Place: How ‘Terroir’ Defines Our Food & Beverages,” Antonellis Cheese.
2. “Like wine, environmental conditions impact flavor of whiskey, study finds,” Oregon State University, Feb. 22, 2021.
3. “Zingerman’s Parm Project — The Process Making the Cheese,” Zingerman’s Community of Businesses.
Other Resources:
- “Terroir: Science Related to Grape and Wine Quality,” Elements Magazine, Volume 14, Number 3, June 2018.
- “Taste and Terroir: The Environment’s Influence on the Characteristics of Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese,” Emilia Delizia, September 22, 2023.